Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jen Robinson on July 11, 2014 at 11:18pm

So, the first thing you should know is that sizing is almost always done by bust in old patterns and they were sized much smaller than today's patterns, and they don't come with multiple sizes in one pattern. Also, they had far less ease, so they'll fit differently from the modern ones. You shouldn't choose by dress size, but by bust size. The standard pattern company drafts for a B-cup. You might be able to get away with a pattern if you're a C-cup but if you're any larger than that you're going to have to do 2 things: 1) choose your size according to your high bust measurement (the circumference around your torso under your arms but ABOVE your bust; 2) you're going to have to do a full-bust adjustment. There are tons of tutorials online that can tell you how to do that. The reason for using the high bust measurement is that you want to get the pattern that's closest to your frame size. For example, I'm a 36G (36 I in US sizes). If I used my full-bust measurement, I'd be sewing a woman's size 24. But my body frame is about a 14/16 in the shoulders, so I go with the high bust measurement so I have less that I have to change.

Second, collars aren't usually a problem but vintage patterns tend to have fewer explanations in their directions and they definitely have fewer pictures, because more people sewed their own clothes back then, so it's kind of assumed that you would know how to do certain things. Having said that, if the photo is of the pattern you intend to use, it should be pretty straightforward. Your biggest challenge will be finding enough buttons of the same size and color, if you live in a place where you only have the local JoAnn's, as well as keeping the buttonholes evenly spaced. I've been sewing for 30 years and I still have to take a lot of time to line up buttonholes when there are a bunch of them in a row.

The latest issue of Threads magazine has a really good article on how to resize any pattern - if you need to resize, that's what you should check out. My biggest advice would be to get some cheap material (or use an old bed sheet) that's about the same weight as the fabric you want to use and make a muslin (trial dress) first so that you can get out any kinks. Imho, things like armholes were higher and you might want to make adjustments for comfort's sake. If you do a muslin first you can make any changes like that before you cut into your dress fabric and you'll know if they work. It may take two versions to get it right, but the key to vintage looks is the fit. If the fit is off it just looks sloppy, and that's not what you want. It might help you to trace the pattern pieces you want to use so that if you need to cut into them you're not working with what can be potentially fragile tissue paper. That way, too, you can make as many versions of the pattern as you want to, making adjustments as necessary - a lot of times if I do a full bust adjustment and the fit still isn't right I go back and do another one from the beginning, rather than try to fix the one that isn't right, simply because there's a bigger potential for ripping and even confusion when it comes to pattern markings.

Good luck! Let us know if you have any other questions as you go and post a pic when you're done! I love seeing other people's creations from vintage patterns.

-Jen

Permalink Reply by Nikki on July 12, 2014 at 4:01pm

Jen- Thank you so much for all of your advice! I will certainly take it all to heart. I appreciate your long reply and will definitely share what I end up making! Thank you!

Permalink Reply by Vivian Vixen on July 12, 2014 at 11:14am

There are a lot of good videos on youtube that can walk you through all types of sewing project.  One thing to remember is that a lot of older patterns were made for only one size (unlike modern patterns that are for a range of about 4 sizes).  You want to be sure that you have measured yourself and that the seller gives you the actual measurements from the pattern not just the size.  The sizes on older sewing patterns run much smaller than modern clothing sizes.  Also be sure that the pattern you purchase has all of the pieces and all of the direction sheets.  Follow each direction set by step and use google to look up terms and directions that you are not familiar with or do not understand.  It will take you some extra time to do this first project but you will learn a lot and have a very pretty vintage dress to wear when it is all done!

Best of Luck!  

Permalink Reply by Nikki on July 12, 2014 at 4:03pm

Yay! I am looking forward to starting this project. Thank you for your advice!!

Permalink Reply by Jennifer Nicole on August 8, 2014 at 1:07pm

What they said!

Also, I would highly suggest not cutting into vintage patterns. Invest in some Medical/Pattern paper (the stuff you sit/lay on at the doctor's office) -- you can buy it buy te roll on Amazon http://amzn.to/1oxkdpp  or you can try the tracing paper that looks like interfacing (http://oliverands.com/blog/2014/03/how-to-preserve-a-pattern-swedis...) which you can pick up at JoAnns or wherever. This will protect the integrity of the vintage pattern and allow you to make changes, write notes directly on it, etc.

And like Jen said, do a test run with cheap material. I know it's a pain in the ass, but to do things right, it really is the way to go. You could even choose a cheaper fabric you still like and make it into a wearable muslin if it magically works out the first time.

I've bought vintage patterns from etsy as well as ebay. I've had a lot of luck with this seller: www.ebay.com/usr/vintage4me2

Oh and be prepared to do a lot of internet research once youve got your specific pattern.

Permalink Reply by Nikki on August 8, 2014 at 1:09pm

I will definitely do a muslin first... Thank you for all the links! I'll have to try out the medical paper. :) Thank you all for being so helpful!!